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Website owner: 
Dave Harnish
CEO: Gracie (RIP 3-16)
Dave's Repair Service
1911 Heath Hill Rd
New Albany, PA 18833
Email:
drs@sosbbs.com


Psalm 118:8


 

 

 

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The DRSNews
March 2006
 

Published by subscription only, by Dave’s Repair Service
©2006 All Rights Reserved  

WHO ELSE WOULD LIKE THIS NEWSLETTER?
If you enjoyed this issue, you're welcome to forward it 
to any friends or associates who might find it useful. 
Or just  send them to: www.DavesRepair.com

***************************************

A Special Welcome to all my new subscribers!

In this issue:
1) A Simple Test for 240V to Your Dryer - Without a Meter or Test Bulb 
2) That Awful Squeal Coming from Your Whirlpool or Kenmore Dryer (Whirlpool goofed!)    

***

1) If you've been getting this newsletter for a while you know I always 'preach' testing for the presence of 240 volts (approx) to your 'no heat' dryer before you take it apart. Saves a ton of time, as most servicers, including this one, have learned the hard way. 

The frustrating side of that recommendation for me is that most folks don't have a VOM (volt-ohm-milliammeter) lying around the house to test this. 

A week or two ago I had one of those little 'Eureka' moments (there aren't nearly as many as there used to be, I admit!), and I think you'll find this idea useful. 

The test involves using a simple table lamp or other 120V fixture with a two-prong (ungrounded) plug on the end of its cord. And it works best with one of the lighter plugs with brass blades that are 'folded over', looking like two pieces sandwiched together. 

To test for 240V at your dryer's terminal block, where the cord connects, just bend the blades of this plug apart and touch them to the outer terminals on the block, one pair at a time, like this:

240V Terminal block test

Note: Test 120V only across terminals as shown - NOT across 2 outside terminals!


Your terminal block may look different than this one, but there are 3 terminals on the back of your electric dryer that the cord, or 'pigtail, connect to. The outer two are 'hots', or 'legs' (Get your minds back on dryers here, guys <g>), and the one in the middle is the 'neutral'. 

When the incoming 240V supply is as it should be, you'll read 120V on these outer two pairs when measuring to the center, neutral post. So if your table lamp lights normally when the plug's touched to the right and center posts, and again when touched to the left and center posts, you have 120V coming in on both 'legs'.

Important: Be sure you test 120V only across outside terminal pairs as shown - and NOT across the 2 outside terminals (the brass ones in the picture). If you should do that, the 240V will blow your 120V lamp or whatever you're using for this test - and very possibly cause you bodily harm! Please be careful. The 240 volts present across these outside two terminals can kill you quickly! You have read my disclaimer, right? I certainly don't want to lose you! <grin>

If 120V is present on both legs, it's a very, very good bet that you have the 240V you need into the dryer (or range, or any other 240V single phase appliance). Simple, huh?

***

2) I thought we'd seen the last of these a while back, but I'm still running into them and answering questions about them, so thought I'd clue you in. 

Recently, for 2 or 3 years, Whirlpool tried using a new belt idler in many of their 29 inch (wide) dryers. After using the same very reliable roller type idler for many decades, I'm not sure why the change was made, but suspect a 'bean-counter' convinced someone that the change would save a bunch of money. 

Well, to make a long story short (not like me, I know! <g>), it didn't work out. Loud squeals, high pitched whines - some of which my aging ears can't even hear - and intermittent crazy noises of all sorts have been caused by the belt sliding over that little piece of Teflon™. 

Thank goodness the company has gone back to what worked for so long, the 691366 idler pulley assembly. That has solved the problem. Unless you happen to own one of the dryers in question. 

The two versions look like this: 

WPL Slider Idler

WPL 691366 Idler

The Problem

The Fix

If yours uses a slider like the one on the left, you'll want to replace it with the roller type idler shown here on the right, part # 691366.  If it 'squeals' too long it also does the belt no favors, so you might want to pick one of those up too. Most of these machines use the same one, part # 341241, which is inexpensive and easy to replace. 

And if you're not sure about the correct belt for yours, drop me an email with your model number and I'll be happy to look it up for you. You'll find your model number inside the dryer door. 

***

Thanks again for allowing me into your inbox - I don't take the invitation lightly! As always, if you have any topics you’d like to see discussed here or covered in an online article, let me know and I’ll do my best to oblige. And don't forget those testimonials! Many thanks if you've already sent yours in! I'm posting them just as fast as I can!

May God richly bless  you and yours,

Dave Harnish
Dave’s Repair Service
New Albany, PA
drs@sosbbs.com
 
http://www.DavesRepair.com

 

'Yesterday's History 
Tomorrow a Mystery
Today is a Gift - That's Why We Call it The Present.' 

Psalm 118:24

Copyright 2006 www.DavesRepair.com 
This information may be reprinted and distributed freely only in its
entirety, including this message.

 

 

 


"Nothing astonishes men so much as common sense and plain dealing" - Ralph Waldo Emerson

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