A Very Happy 2008 to you!
(Once again I've fallen way behind, and have had to
the Jan & Feb issues of the newsletter. My sincere apologies!)
Published by subscription only, by Dave's Repair Service
(c)2008 All Rights Reserved
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In this issue:
1) Repairing the Whirlpool/Kenmore washer gearcase, Part 2
(longer than usual, but I wanted to get this to you in one
2) Subscribers-only 'Two or More Ship Free' sale still going strong
1) Two issues ago, we talked about removing a Whirlpool-built 'direct
drive' washer gearcase (transmission) from a washer for repair. While
this isn't a really common failure, I am seeing it more often these
That said, I still feel that these machines are the best washers for the
money these days.
This issue I'll run through a few tips on taking it apart and replacing
'neutral drain kit' #388253 which includes the only internal parts (the
lever spring and spin pawl - gotta love plastic!) I'm seeing fail on any
of regular basis.
First of all, don't let this job scare you - it's really not hard at
all. It can
get a little messy if you're not careful, because it's easy to drop one
these with the cover off and dump the gearcase oil all over the floor
(don't ask me how I've learned that!) But you'll only do that once...
5/16'' socket wrench
external snap ring pliers
scraper or 1-edge razor blade
5/32'' Allen wrench
Degreasing solvent and rags
small block of wood (if clamping in bench vise)
Parts & materials (Whirlpool part #'s):
388253 Neutral drain kit
350572 gearcase oil (or 15 oz of most any high grade 80W-90 gear oil)
285352 input shaft seal kit
285753 coupler kit
Before we get started, a couple of notes:
Replacing the oil in these units probably isn't essential when doing
but is a good idea, as is replacing your car's oil filter with an oil
Fine metal filings and dirt can accumulate inside any gearbox, and even
there's much less accumulated dirt in a washer gearcase than in your
cleaning it and adding new oil will help it last as long as possible.
I never disassemble one that's been in service very long without
oil. It's a good practice, and like the oil in your car, when you
oil coming out with that going in, you'll know it's a smart move.
The factory oil is Whirlpool part #350572. It's pricey at just under
$30, and 15oz
of any good grade of gear oil works fine. I buy a gallon at a time at
for around $12, but you can also buy it in quarts many places.
I replace the input shaft seal in these whenever I have one apart,
that's a pretty common failure and it's easier to do while the gearcase
is on the
bench. An easy seal to replace (part #285352) and not at all expensive,
falls under the 'preventive maintenance' heading.
"A life spent making mistakes is not only more honorable,
but more useful than a life spent doing nothing." - George
If you've been enduring my rambling for any length of
time, you know that's
a 'soapbox' issue for me <grin>. A little PM has saved me a lot of time
aggravation over the years, and I've become a firm believer in it.
You should also plan on replacing the drive coupler - at least the
to the input shaft - whenever it's been removed. Reinstalling a used one
feasible because it won't grip the shaft tightly enough the second time
on, and will fail pretty quickly. The coupler half that mounts to the
motor can be
left in place if it's still tightly gripping the motor shaft, but most
of them I see
aren't, so plan on replacing the coupler, #285753 (
The only exception to this *might* be the newest version with the steel
hubs, but I haven't been using those yet. 'Tried one or two so far, but
they get the dimensions figured out, I can't recommend them. The current
version is fitting too tightly. But Whirlpool will get it right; they
stay with a
problem until it's resolved.
Clamp the gearcase assy in a bench vise by bolting the motor plate back
on and using a small block of wood to help hold it level (I've made a
of handy jigs out of plywood and 1/2" running thread, but I do a lot of
the eight 5/16'' hex-head screws holding the cover on. Use a
putty knife to
the cover free.
I usually level the gearcase in the vise at this
point, just to make sure the
oil stays where it should when you're putting it all back together,
off the lid sealing surface.
There's no gasket used, but just Loc-Tite (tm) sealer between the two, and
covers can really stick. I use Permatex
to re-seal the cover back on.
The Loc-Tite's just too darned expensive.
thoroughly scrape and clean
the mating surfaces before sealing. Acetone
PVC pipe cleaner work pretty
well for cleaning.
Once the cover's off, remove the plastic spin gear's large snap
ring and flat
lift the gear off. NOTE: Do NOT lift the assy by
the shaft once
this snap ring's
off, or the shaft and gear assy will pull out of the gearcase
toes - and floors!
Drain as much of the oil out as possible. You might want to try running
through a paint strainer if you have the time, to clean it for re-use.
Like I said
before, I prefer to just use new oil, but trying that might be worth the
I like to disassemble everything and drop the whole works into my parts
but you can just wipe it out, too. Not critical.
With the plastic spin gear out, follow directions in
the kit to replace the neutral
drain assembly. Its mounting plate is held to the main drive gear with a
5/32'' Allen screw that also serves as the spin pawl pivot. The trip
white part on the right) spring was broken in the above gearcase, but
pawl (larger white part on the left) also can wear its end off.
If you remove the shaft/rack assy from the gearcase
casting, be careful not to
lose the thrust ball and washer at the bottom end of the agitate shaft.
parts 'hide' in the lower shaft bearing, down inside the casting and are
overlook. The ball goes in first, then the washer drops in on top of it.
If you pull the assy out, note the rack and pinion
alignment marks when
reassembling. A single slash mark on the agitate gear must align between
two on the rack gear teeth.
The gearcase casting, cleaned and ready to be put
That's essentially it. If replacing the input shaft
seal, just run a sheet metal or
self-drilling screw into its edge at 2:00 or 7:00 to remove it, and
press the new one
in with a 3/4'' socket. Hammer a new coupler onto the input shaft with a
extension, fill with 15 ounces of oil, seal the cover on, and reinstall
in the washer.
I plan on making this article available as an easily downloadable pdf
file very soon,
and will let you know when that's ready to go.
2) A whole bunch of you have taken advantage of me
;-) with the '2 or more ship free'
sale, and again this month shipping and handling are no charge for any
more online products, to any US address. But only for DRSNews
and only during this month for now. Regrettably, this has to be limited
subscribers, as international shipping rates have gotten pretty crazy.
Here's the current list of parts and tools included:
Sale Parts . If you don't see
the one you need there, and you're a subscriber, just
ask me .
One of the incredible rewards I get from writing this newsletter is the
you all have been to me over the years. I want you to know I appreciate
you, and this
is just one small token 'thank you' that I'm happy to do for you.
Please feel free to send me any other ideas you might have for
subscriber 'perks' I can
add for you, and I'll do my best to make them happen. And any
suggestions for article
topics and/or manuals are always welcome.
Swing by and check out my new Appliance Terms Glossary Project if you
haven't yet -
it's still a work in progress. Here's what I have so far:
Thanks again for allowing me into your inbox! I don't
take the privilege lightly.
'Sorry this issue got a bit long. It's hard to condense a procedure like
May God richly bless you and yours in 2008,
Dave's Repair Service
New Albany, PA
Coming Soon to a planet near You: A real, lasting New
'Year'! ALL things new!
- Revelation 21
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