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Website owner: 
Dave Harnish
CEO: Gracie (RIP 3-16)
Dave's Repair Service
1911 Heath Hill Rd
New Albany, PA 18833
Email:
drs@sosbbs.com


Psalm 118:8


 

 

 

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The DRSNews
December 2003
Merry Christmas! Happy Hanukkah!

In this issue:

1) When Your Dryer Wheezes ‘I can’t Breathe!’
2) Gas Oven Ignition - a ‘Crash Course’

1) 'Tis the season, at least here in the c-c-cold Northeast, for dryer vent duct problems. Saw another one yesterday, and they're scary to a fire-paranoid guy like me.

If your dryer's connected to flexible white plastic vent duct, now's a good time to take a look at it. This stuff really gets brittle as it ages. Cracks and air leaks are common. And it will fill with water when it's run through a cold crawlspace or cellar (If this describes yours, at least poke a few small drain holes in the bottom of the duct for now). I've seen so many problems with it over the years, I've become a true believer in rigid 4 inch aluminum pipe. Better airflow means a more efficient and safer dryer.

I’ve run about 16 feet of smooth wall aluminum here at our house for 26 years, and have had to clean it only once! I check it every year, but it stays beautifully clean. One of those things that’s worth doing right, because then you can forget about it for a long time.

If you have no choice but flexible duct, consider replacing it with a good quality aluminum product like 'Supurr-Flex'â from Deflecto Corp. This duct is as flexible as plastic, but is constructed of 5 layers of aluminum foil, and has been an excellent alternative to flex plastic, which is now illegal in most states. It looks like this:  

Super-Flex Dryer Duct

If you've recently bought, or are considering buying, a new dryer, remember that most manufacturers won't honor your dryer's warranty if they find out you’ve vented it with flex plastic.

Whether you're installing your dryer or just moving it to clean behind it, you'll want to pay close attention to what happens to the flexible duct ‘tail’ behind it when you push the machine back into place. The most common result of a kink back there is a burnt-out heating element or safety thermal limiter, but it can get much worse than that. The flex aluminum is also less prone to kinking than previous materials.

If your dryer is on a slippery floor and prone to 'walking' back towards the wall and smashing the duct, a short piece of 2 X 6 laid on the floor behind the dryer will keep it where it belongs and breathing easy.

2) I’ve been seeing a lot of gas ovens not igniting lately, so let’s talk about them a little bit.

Most gas oven systems today are ‘electronic ignition’, and use a ‘glowbar’ type ignitor electrically in series with an oven valve.

Electrical current passing through the ignitor operates a small heater that ‘warps’ an internal piece of bimetal to open the gas valve.

While the valves are very reliable, the ignitors have become the most common parts failure on these systems. Which is to be expected, I guess; they’re doing their job in a gas flame!

Ignitors come in two basic types, ‘flat’ and ‘round’, seen below, and they can’t be interchanged.

IGN5 flat ignitor AR403 round ignitor

The 'Flat Style', # IGN5 

A Round One, # AR403

Each type operates at a particular amperage level, and is matched to the type gas valve it operates. The stainless steel ‘cages’ that protect them usually correspond to their actual shape, which helps you figure out which one yours uses. And to make it even easier, there’s pretty much only One round one that fits them all. Flat ones vary only in the length of the ceramic block to which they’re mounted. Electrically they’re nearly all the same.

While it’s possible to diagnose one of these systems using an ammeter, it usually isn’t necessary. Since I try to keep life simple, and since these ignitors have really dropped in price the last few years, it’s pretty easy to figure out what’s up with your cold oven.

If your oven doesn’t light, but you see the ignitor glowing, it will most likely be glowing a very dull red and not drawing enough current to operate the valve. Or, in some cases, it will operate the valve very slightly and you’ll smell some gas odor. Neither case is desirable or acceptable!

Watch a clock or stopwatch. If it takes more than 2 minutes to light, you’ll want to replace the ignitor; it’s the culprit in 90% of these. And this is the best way for you to diagnose your ignition system! In most cases, that’s all there is to it. You don’t even have to worry about wire polarity on the new ignitor – they can be wired either way. Just be sure it’s wired like the old one, and not connected to 120V directly, or it will burn out.  Ignitor and valve must be in series with each other, or you’ll burn out one or both, fast!

If you’ve replaced the ignitor and it glows but the oven still doesn’t light, it’s time for a new valve. They’re pricier, but I usually recommend doing this once in a range’s life if necessary. Still much cheaper than a new range.

If there’s no ‘glow’ at all, take a close look at the ignitor, and you’ll often see a crack, or it may even be obvious that it’s broken apart. You can use an ohmmeter to test for continuity if no cracks are visible.

Just be sure to power the range down. In some models, one side of the oven valve is always ‘hot’ with respect to ground, like some electric range bake element terminals.

New ignitors ship with two ceramic wire nuts, and you simply connect the new part’s wires to the originals, using the original plug if yours has one.

A bit of hi-temp. grease on the mounting screws will be a big help if you have to repeat this job in the future. These screws are subject to very high heating, and can ‘freeze’ into their threads so tightly you’d like to blast to get them out sometimes!

The flat version's available here, the 'round' one here

There are also some part numbers cross-referenced in the ads, and if I may say so, you’ll find the best prices anywhere on both styles there right now too! At least until Spring, when the prices always seem to creep back up.

       *** Here are a couple of ‘Christmas Bonuses’ for you ***

If you like gardening like I do, you'll love this! A friend in Ohio named Mike McGroarty has a website jam-packed with tons of gardening and nursery information! Mike's a nurseryman and landscaper, and an expert at propagating his own shrubs and other plants from cuttings, and freely shares what he's learned. ‘Even has a free newsletter!

Click here to check it out:  Mike's Gardening Site, 'FreePlants'

Mike has another site with some dynamite information on Internet Marketing. He’s an ordinary guy that’s taught himself how to make good money online, and his teaching is simple. If an old farm boy like me can understand it, you know it must be!

Here’s his  'Learn from Mike' Site

Thanks for inviting me into your inbox again this month. I hope you benefit from this half as much as I enjoy writing it for you. Thanks for all your encouragement - I really appreciate it!

May the Lord richly bless you & yours with the best Christmas season ever, and may He continue to have Mercy on America. She sorely needs it.

Sincerely,
Dave Harnish
Dave’s Repair Service
New Albany, PA
drs@sosbbs.com
(570) 363-2404

Micah 5:2 (Written some 700 years before the Fact!)

Internet Marketing Made Stupidly Simple!
Get Your Free Course Here:
'Learn From Mike'

 


 

 


"Nothing astonishes men so much as common sense and plain dealing" - Ralph Waldo Emerson

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