Published by Dave’s Repair Service, All Rights Reserved
DRSNews Back Issues are (Finally) Posted!
2) The No-Heat Gas Dryer
3) How to Convert a Gas Dryer to LP
Well, it’s taken longer than I expected, but I finally got the
back issues of
this little newsletter project posted on the
also working as fast as time allows at posting ‘How to do
it yourself’ articles,
manuals, and anything else
that I think might
be helpful to
you ‘handy’ folks.
by for a visit and have a look around when you get a chance.
And please send me
your suggestions. But please be
kind (grin) – it’s still a pretty crude site,
but I’m just getting
DRSNews Back issue index is finally available (to subscribers only),
and the link will be included in every issue. Thanks for waiting for
We’ve talked a lot about Electric dryers that don’t heat, but
only briefly on the gas side of things, so I
we should take a run at the subject.
with electric dryers, the fastest way to diagnose a ‘no heat’
gas dryer is to
start at the heat source and work backwards.
the gas version is simpler in one respect – you’re working
with 120 volts,
so there’s only one ‘leg’ of power to be
will want to verify that there’s gas pressure available to
the dryer, but
that’s usually not too difficult.
system diagnosis on newer models can be more of a challenge,
of them have
front panels without the
full-width bottom access
panels that we
took for granted for
years. Most provide no
easy way to
look at the burner flame, although
a few models
still have a
small observation port in front, with
the electric dryer heating element test, I check for
voltage to the
heat source - in this case, the gas valve ass’y,
with the dryer
running. (On models that
require front panel
watch the burner flame, I usually just run the drum belt
off the pulley.
You can even pull the drum to get it out of your
in mind, if you hear the
valve ‘click’ when you start the dryer,
you already know there’s
power to the valve. (You have made
sure the controls aren’t
set to ‘air fluff’, or 'no heat', right? <grin>)
burner valve assemblies connect to power with a 3-wire plug,
and that plug's an easy place to test for 120V. Meter test pins
can usually be inserted
into the back side of this plug pretty easily.
That third wire's just a ground, and if it doesn't happen to
be green, you'll see
that it connects to a metal part in the valve
area. We want to look for voltage on the other two.
there’s voltage to the valve but no burner ignition, you’ve
eliminated a whole bunch of electrical controls as the problem
thermal fuse, etc, very quickly. You now
know the problem
in the valve/ignition system itself.
proceeding from there isn't too tough.
the ignition cycle is as follows: At dryer start, you
should hear the
valve click. 5 or 10 seconds later, you should
see the ignitor
start to glow a brilliant red. After it has heated
for a few
seconds, 15 or so, the flame sensor should open and cut power
to it, and
you’ll hear another valve 'click', the valve should
there’ll be gas flow and a nice blue flame.
if you're testing this with the front panel and belt off, don't
allow the flame to burn very long. Without the front panel
in place there'll be no airflow through the burner, and the flame
can warm things up more than we want. A few seconds of ignition
is all you need to make sure everything's working
from most common to the not-so-common:
the valve clicks on dryer start the but ignitor doesn’t glow, the
probably open. These are very brittle, and a bad one
cracked (not always easy to see!) or broken.
handling a new one, be very careful with it. It's easy
to break these,
and it's even best not to touch them with your
the ignitor glows, then the flame sensor turns it off, but there’s
one of the coils is probably open.
These are much easier to
test than the old 'K' valve coils, and can be replaced
But it’s better to replace them as a set.
test the coils
with an ohmmeter, here are the resistance readings:
of the least common failures is the flame sensor. This little
switch is heated by the
ignitor and flame through a little window.
mounts to the side of the burner 'can', usually on the left, and
is just a simple two-wire
switch. When radiant heat warms it enough,
it electrically opens and the burner ignites. The radiant heat
from the flame then keeps it open, the flame heats the ignitor,
which keeps its resistance low, and the gas keeps flowing.
the ignitor glows but the gas never turns on, suspect this part.
you're comfortable doing so, after the ignitor has glowed a few
seconds, carefully pull off
one of this sensor's wires, and you should get ignition.
That's a quick 'proof' of a bad flame sensor.
are surprisingly reliable, though. I recently replaced my first
one in about 3 years of full time service work!
Conversion to LP is pretty easy with this valve too, and is a really
common job here in the
country. It's getting a little more involved
lately with some brands,
because they're playing games with
and make you replace the burner tube.
conversion kits are more expensive, but the job's still not a big
if you don't have to change the tube, it's only a matter of
changing the burner orifice
and replacing the brass regulator vent
with a block-open pin.
Orifices, pin, instructions, and labels to
know it's been converted, are all supplied in the kits.
a picture of the typical component layout on the 'M' valve burner
let me know if you have any trouble locating a conversion kit
for your dryer. I carry many of them in stock, and most of those
I don't stock can be here 'next-day'.
again for allowing me into your inbox
again this month. I really enjoy this project, and hope you benefit
free to invite others to subscribe that you think might enjoy
if you have any topics you’d like to see
discussed here or
covered in an online article, let me know and I’ll do my best
to oblige. The website is a resource I'm excited about, because
it allows a lot more flexibility and depth than email.
for all your encouragement - I really appreciate it! May
the Lord richly
bless you & yours!
Dave’s Repair Service
New Albany, PA
thus saith the high and lofty One that inhabiteth eternity, whose
name is Holy; I dwell in the high and holy place, with him also
that is of a contrite and humble spirit...’
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