A Quick Fix for Whirlpool & Kenmore
Washer Brake Lockup Problems

Note: This tip first appeared in my free monthly newsletter,
The DRSNews (you have signed up, right?)

Here's how to cure the brake lockup problem with 
those top load washers we call 'direct drives', made under 
the Whirlpool, Kenmore, Kitchenaid, Roper and Estate 
brand names. I'm thrilled to say that I've found a much 
easier, faster cure than ever. Correcting this used to take 
me an hour and a quarter, but now runs around 15 minutes
using this method! Whoo-hoo!

The symptom of what I call 'spin brake lockup' is the 
washer's basket stopping too suddenly at the end of spin. 
This can be so violent that the entire machine can actually 
pivot out of place. Yikes!

I used to see this happen on these washers only rarely, but 
for whatever reason it seems to be getting more common.

The inertia of this sudden stop can 'strip' the washer's drive 
coupler and bring the machine to a halt. And I've seen a few 
cases that stripped the drive tabs off the basket drive block, 
and that's a pretty impressive chunk of aluminum.

This appears to be caused by paint on the inside of the brake 
drum 'gumming' up and making the brake shoes grab. I used 
to pull the tub, transmission, and basket drive out and sand 
the drum and linings, which corrected the problem, at least for 
a while. But it was a time consuming - and expensive - job.

But after testing the following shortcut on many of these 
washers over the last year or two, I'm happy to report that 
all that work is totally unnecessary!  I doubt you'll see 
this tip anywhere else, so it's well worth the cost of your 
subscription (well, OK, your sub's free, but I wanted to make 
sure you were paying attention! <grin>)

If your washer stops spinning violently like I'm describing, 
within a second or two, you can cure it yourself (if it's not 
repaired, it can also cause serious damage to suspension 
components).

Pickup a small tube of high temperature silicone-based 
grease from your local auto parts store. 'Sil-Glyde' is one 
common brand that I've used for many purposes over the 
years. A very handy grease to use around rubber components 
that petroleum lubes would attack. This is sold as automotive 
brake caliper lube, and if you ask for a small amount of 
that, they'll know what you mean. Buy the smallest amount 
available - you only need a tiny 'dab' on the end of a small 
screwdriver.

Pull the washer's cabinet off (see the beginning of this article
for help) and you'll see the chrome clutch drum, right above the
transmission. Just above that is another, larger drum, and this
one's the brake drum. On most, you'll see a  foam 'rubber band'
noise dampener around it. Here's what it looks like:

Put a 1/4 inch 'dab' of silicone grease on the end of a small 
screwdriver (I'm using the pen-sized one carried in my shirt 
pocket in the picture above), and look up into this brake drum.

You'll want to insert the screwdriver between the brake coil 
spring and the inside of the drum.  Apply the grease to the 
inside of the brake drum. The tub can usually be rotated by
hand to bring this spring around. It's nice to have a helper
slowly turn the tub from above while you watch the spring's
location. (I've never had a helper to do this, but it'd be nice ;-) )

Be sure you're putting this into the inside vertical surface of
the UPPER, painted (brake) drum, and NOT the chrome (clutch)
drum below it.

It would be very hard to put grease on the clutch linings inside
the lower clutch drum, but I mention the possibility just in case
there's a 'Tim Allen' type (like my dear brother!) out there who
might take the 'more is better' approach. ;-)

That's it! Solves the brake lockup problem, and it usually doesn't 
come back! No pulling the motor, gear case, pump, or any of that
fun stuff like I used to! As my daughter would say, 'sweet!'

Copyright 2009 www.DavesRepair.com 
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