How to Remove and Reinstall
Whirlpool - Built Direct Drive Washer Cabinets
(Whirlpool, Roper, Kitchenaid, Estate, most Kenmore, and
most newer Maytag)
To remove the cabinet from Whirlpool - built direct drive top-load
washers for service:
Note: While some service procedures on these machines can be
performed from underneath the washer without taking the cabinet off,
it's almost always much, much easier to just pull the cabinet. You'll be
pleasantly surprised by just how easily these cabinets come off, and
once it's removed and out of the way, servicing one of these washers is
Unplug the washer. Remove the 2 Phillips screws that retain the
console. (On some machines, these are hidden under console end caps that
must be pried off. On newer models, they’re on the back of the console
and just get backed out about halfway. On many of the latest models,
just to make life interesting, there are no screws! Like the earlier
Calypso model [shudder], there are two clips that you release by
inserting a putty knife under the console from the front. Evidently,
screws are getting very expensive to manufacture ;-) ).
Rotate the console fwd to unhook it from the cabinet top, then up and back; it will hang back out of the way
if the washer’s away from the wall far enough.
Unplug the lid switch plug, then use a large screwdriver to pry up the 2 large clips that
hold the cabinet to the washer back panel.
Note: On models with 'triple dispensers' for detergent, bleach,
and fabric softener, there are 3 small hoses, usually under a plastic
cover that swings aside, that have to be removed before taking off the
cabinet. Don't forget to reconnect them when putting it back together!
Tilt the entire cabinet forward and it’ll unhook from the retainers
on the base. Lift the cabinet off and set aside (it's not nearly as heavy as it sounds
- or looks!)
To put the cabinet back on, open the cabinet lid, and, looking down through the lid opening, hook
the cabinet front under the washer base while keeping the cabinet tilted
Rest your foot at the cabinet bottom to hold it in place,
and tip it back down onto the base. Snap the 2 big cabinet clips back into
place, and look down the back corners to ensure there are no gaps between
the cabinet and back panel where they meet at the bottom. If one side’s
gapped, it means the rear, bottom retainer on that side isn’t hooked. Pop
the clip on that side, tilt forward slightly, and push the side down into
place. Then reinstall the clip.
Plug the lid switch back in, rotate the console back
down, reinstall its retaining screws, plug the machine back in, and pat yourself on the back!
That's all there is to it!
Copyright 2012 www.DavesRepair.com
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