In this issue:
Fast and Easy Washer Fill Valve Screen Cleaning
Finally: A Simple Tool to Test WPL/KM Dryer Airflow
newer washers use fill valves with internal screens that are
really hard to remove for cleaning. And if you've never done it
before, some can be tough to reinstall correctly, too. (you'll
find these screens inside the fittings to which the fill hoses
So instead of
struggling to pry them out to scrub them in the sink, just back flush
them! You'll usually find that the cold screen's the
only one causing a problem (most of the sediment in your hot
water settles to the bottom of your water heater and never
makes it as far as the washer), so that's the hose you'll want to
remove when your washer's cold fill is barely trickling
describes your washer, you'll first notice that the rinse cycle's taking
a long, long time, because most machines are set up for
cold rinse, filling with only cold water. With a clogged cold screen, a
load of wash can take about a decade to get done!
To fix this,
turn off the cold water and unscrew the cold fill hose from the back of the
washer. If your water
supply has one shutoff lever that turns off both hot and cold
water, this'll work too, but it's easier if they're separate faucets (see
If you can
turn off just the cold water, hold a container under the plastic
portion of the fill valve where you just unscrewed the hose, and
set the washer to a warm wash fill. You'll see hot water entering
the tub, but there'll also be some backing out through the
cold side of the valve.
The next step
will vary depending on your washer brand, but basically you
want to pinch off the fill tube that's taking that hot water to
the tub, forcing as much as possible to divert back through that
cold screen and into your container. On most brands,
Whirlpool, Kenmore, etc, you can just reach up next to the fill
chute, with the lid open, and pinch this small rubber tube a bit
with your fingers.
less time than telling you about it, and has worked well for me.
Some of the new plastic screens can be very hard to remove
without damaging them, and this is a good alternative.
I wish I could
remember who first told me about this simple little trick many
years ago. I'm indebted to him.
Note: if your
machine connects with a 'single lever' style faucet, you'll need to
cap or kink/pinch off the cold hose, letting it hang into the tub
while you do this. If you don't have a pinch-off pliers, just double it
back on itself and gently squeeze it with a locking pliers. Or
have a helper kink and hold it, with the end in the tub. It doesn't
have to make a perfect seal.
By the way, if
you do happen to ruin a screen, don't panic. Just pickup a
screened washer - fine mesh stainless steel works best - and add it to
the faucet end of the hose. Just be sure there's a screen
somewhere in each fill line, at one end of the hose or the other, or
you'll eventually end up with an overflow, and that's far worse than
dealing with a clogged screen!
In those cases
where the back of the washer's tough to access and the
house water 's carrying a lot of sediment, I usually remove the screens from the valve and add a set of screen washers up at the faucets, within easier reach. Here's
what they look like:
a short article with more details.
Be sure they're installed
with the screen's point headed 'upstream', facing into the water flow.
And as we've
discussed before, it's also a good idea to apply some
silicone-based grease to the faucet threads before reinstalling
A simple little tool to test your Whirlpool or Kenmore dryer (also Kitchenaid, Roper, and Estate)
vent for proper airflow. Now instead of
asking folks to go outside and check for a 'good, strong airflow' (whatever THAT means!), there's a simple, inexpensive little device that'll tell you if your vent's OK or if
to drag out the ol' shop vac and clean it out. Just click on this picture
of the kit for more details:
wish there was something similar for other dryer brands...
Dave’s Repair Service
New Albany, PA
Man can weep with sorrow.
Only God can raise the dead.
John 11:35, 44
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