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How to replace the 'Direct-Drive' 
pumps used in Whirlpool-made 
top load washers 
(Whirlpool, Kenmore, Estate, Roper, and Kitchenaid)

[Printer-Friendly Version of this article]

This is the most common pump, with its inlet port much bigger than outlet, part  #3363394  (on Ebay)
The other pump currently in use. Its ports are nearly the same size with a check valve in the outlet part #3363892 (on Ebay)

Note: I recommend only genuine OEM Whirlpool pumps.

Pump seal failure is about the only source of water leaks I see on these very reliable washers, and pump replacement is usually pretty quick and easy, and is the same for both versions. So let's dive right in!

1) Unplug the washer. Remove the 2 Phillips screws that retain the console. (On some machines, these are hidden under console end caps that must be pried off. On newer models, they’re on the back of the console). Rotate the console fwd, then up and back; it will hang back out of the way if the washer’s away from the wall far enough.

2) Unplug the white lid switch plug and pry up the 2 large clips that hold the cabinet to the washer back panel.

3) Tilt the entire cabinet forward and it’ll unhook from the retainers on the base. Lift the cabinet off and set aside (not as heavy as it sounds!) You'll see the pump right in front, very easy to access.

4) Connect your wetvac to the washer's drain hose and run the vac to empty as much water as possible from the pump and hoses.. (Keep the vac handy to pickup any remaining water that may spill when you pull the hoses off the pump).

5) Pry the two retaining clips off the pump and pull it off the motor shaft. In some cases, especially if it's been leaking for a while, it will be 'frozen' to the shaft. These can sometimes be really tough to remove. In extreme cases, it's easiest to cut the center out of the pump with a hole saw or RotoZip® tool, and then pry or cut the remaining hub pieces off. 

When that happens, you'll find the motor shaft rusted, but in nearly every case, it can be resurfaced to accept the new pump. I use a Dremel Moto-Tool® and sanding drum to grind the rust damage off, but a good file will do the job too - just a lot slower.

The shaft has to be ground back down so that the new pump slips easily onto it. If it binds and has to be forced on it will probably develop a leak, so this is very important. 

6) Reinstall the hoses to the pump ports. Put a light coating of petroleum jelly on the motor shaft (makes this job easier if there's a next time!) and push the pump back on, rotating the motor slightly if necessary by reaching back and turning it by the coupler. Reinstall the pump clips.

7) Before putting it all back together, I like to run the washer with the cabinet off and double-check that there are no leaks. This can be done by using a lid switch jumper made for the purpose, or even an alligator clip jumper carefully inserted into the back of the lid switch plug.

Also, before buttoning up, you'll want to lube the brake to prevent lockup. Takes only a minute, but can prevent a ton of problems. I've seen violent brake lockup break suspension parts, and even ruin a brand new coupler in only two loads! Here's how to easily prevent that: DD washer brake lube

8) To reinstall the cabinet, open the cabinet lid, and, looking down through the lid opening, hook the cabinet front under the washer base while keeping the cabinet tilted slightly forward. Rest your foot at the cabinet bottom to hold it in place, and tip it back down onto the base. Snap the 2 cabinet clips back into place, and look down the back corners to ensure there are no gaps between the cabinet and back panel where they meet at the bottom. If one side’s gapped, it means the rear, bottom retainer on that side isn’t hooked. Pop the clip on that side, tilt forward slightly, and push the side down into place. Then reinstall the clip.

9) Plug the lid switch and power plugs back in, rotate the console back down, reinstall its retaining screws, and pat yourself on the back! You just saved at least $75.00!

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